Anytone AT-D578UV Pro and Antenna Install

I currently own a 2015 Chevrolet Tahoe with a Havis 10-inch vehicle-specific console (part #C-VS-1000-GMC-1). The console was a discontinued part that I ended up finding on eBay for $45. I couldn't pass up the deal since the original price is around $150 and you can't even order it anymore. I installed a Uniden BCD536HP scanner programmed with the local emergency services frequencies. The scanner has an 800/900 MHz 1/4 wave antenna with a front fender mount. I left room to eventually install the TYT TH-9800 I had lying around, but ended up picking up the Anytone AT-D578UV Pro. I want to eventually branch off into the DMR world, so I wanted something to accommodate DMR. I think I’m going to make the TH-9800 a base station until I grab something more reliable.

I was undecided about using a magnetic mount for my vehicle or just drilling a hole. After browsing the internet until the end of time, I decided to drill the hole. I wanted the cleanest installation possible. Those magnetic mounts look bulky at times, and running the coax on the outside of the vehicle looks sloppy. I ordered a DeWalt 3/4" impact hole saw (Part #D180012IR) from Amazon for $13.99. The hole saw was another thing I researched. Laird Technologies makes a 3/4" hole saw specifically for NMO installations. The Laird hole saw costs anywhere from $70-$90, depending on where you purchase it from. The Laird hole saw also has a 1/8" "safe cutting" stop on it. Since I was pulling the headliner down far enough, I did not need this "safe cutting" stop feature. The price of that hole saw is just crazy considering that the hole needed to go through the entire roof and you needed access to tighten the mount anyway. Why not just use a regular-depth 3/4" hole saw and save yourself some money? I pulled the headliner down after removing some trim and some hardware, taped the roof with painter’s tape, and SENT IT! No turning back now—drill the hole! I placed the hole towards the rear of my roof (passenger side), which isn't the best grounding spot, but I wanted a symmetrical install if I eventually added another antenna to my vehicle. I ran the cable down the headliner, behind the curtain airbags (hopefully transmitting doesn't activate them; fingers crossed), down the pillar, and under the carpet to my center console. I crimped on a PL-259 connector after the cable reached the inside of the center console. I wasn't confident enough to solder the connection.

I researched the dimensions of the Anytone in order to find a face plate to mount the radio in the console. Havis did make a few that would fit the radio, but most of those face plates are discontinued (or a two-piece "L" design). I found that Jotto Desk made a console face plate for the Kenwood (models TK760, TK840, TK880, and TK980). The face plate was the perfect size for the Anytone radio. I found the face plate on eBay for $50 (Part #425-6336). It was a little expensive, but it was a perfect fit. I installed the Anytone into the face plate and left it as high as I could, leaving access to the programming port on the left side.

The antenna I am currently using is a dual-band Tram #1181 (UHF 430–470 and VHF 140–170). I wanted a lower-profile antenna to work on both bands. The SWR is good on 2m (SWR of just over 1) but not the greatest on 70cm (SWR of 2.18). Right now, I have been listening to two local ham radio clubs. The Phil-Mont Mobile Radio Club (http://phil-mont.org/) operates on 147.030 MHz (+offset 91.5 PL), and the Holmesburg Amateur Radio Club (http://harcnet.org/) operates on 146.685 MHz (146.2 PL). The Phil-Mont Radio Club is very active. They host a "Drive Time Net" Monday through Friday from 5:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. EST. I have been listening for about two weeks now and haven't made my first "check-in" yet. I still haven't made my first "QSO." Right now, I’m listening and learning before I make my first transmission.